Tuesday 31 July 2012

Day 43 Gigha to Port Ellen Islay






Gigha is delightful. Beautiful sandy beaches, low lying and with a garden taken over by the National Trust and being gradually restored. Our one disappointment was that the cafe has closed at 1530 when we returned hoping for tea and cakes.


Lagavulin

Islay has a very different coast from Gigha

Ardbeg

Another sunny morning and a short trip to Islay. Islay is renowned for its distilleries and we hope to visit at least one of them. My choice is Lagavulin.
Rocky entrance to Lagavulin bay


The small marina is fairly full on our arrival and we moor on one of the outer pontoons, have lunch and get the bikes to cycle up the coast to Lagavulin. Along the way we pass Laphroaig, pass Lagavulin and take a quick look at Ardbeg before returning. Lagavulin no longer malts its own barley but bays it in. This doesn't seem to detract from the final producet which is rated at 38 ppm ( peat per millilitre) not the peatiest but a lovely whisky especially when you add 2 tear drops of water. Out tasting takes place in a panelled drawing room with leather settees and whisky ad lib. We both agree that the 12 year old cask strength (57% proof) is the best.
Islay Marina

Islay port next to marina

Saturday 28 July 2012

Day 42 Tayvallich to the Island of Gigha and a new fishing method

Tayvallich last evening (idem photos below)

A bright sunny morning augurs well and we prepare to release ourselves from the buoy and as Richard raised the chain we see that a mackerel has swum into one of the links and got itself stuck. I have finally caught fish, by I think a new method, not line caught but chain caught! We later enjoy the profits of this exercise in the frying pan. Our only regret was that we did not have the presence of mind to take a photo as we hauled the chain in.

Lesaving Tayvallich. The entrance is hidden to the left
Richard enjoying then early morning sun
Seals basking in the sun
Approach the entrance to Loch Sweeney
One of the several Gannets we saw on the way.
Time to leave
Lift-off at last
Fishing against the backdrop of Jura
Approaching Gigha

Day 41 Oban to Tayvallich in Loch Sweeny



Tuesday dawns dry and cloudy. we set of down the channel between Kerrara, Jura and the mainland. We left at a suitable time to ensure we have a south going tide in the Sound of Luing were tide can be particularly strong and as you can see from the photo this proved to be the case, at one stage propelling us along at 7 knots above our boat speed. (One quickly learns on a sailing boat that speeds normal in a car have no meaning!)
The top end of Loch Sweeney
Tayvallich in the foreground and Carsaig in the background ( Courtesy of the Clyde Cruising Guide)
The Loch north of Tayvallich and the Fairy Islands

Loch Sweeny is a beautiful loch, unveiling its hidden treasures as we sail north towards Tayvallich. The entry to the bay encompassing Tayvallich is well hidden until you are almost on top of it and then, whow, a spectacularly narrow entrance opens into a classic basin surrounded by trees and a small community of houses. There are 3 visitors buoys and we have the choice of all three and take up the most westerly of the three.

Tayvallich is on the opposite side of the peninsular from Carsaig, just half a mile distant.
Tayvallich at low tide

The Tayvallich Inn ( Egon Ronay and Michelin recommended) offers a sumptuous repas and we retire to the boat replete and comfortable in our glorious surroundings.



A few days in Oban

Bloodhound moored on the inside pontoon at Oban
At last some 3G coverage so I can pair my phone to my laptop. This is being done as we are 3 miles of the Larne coast on the way to Peel in the Isle of Man

Domestic chores and a delightful exploration of the island of Kerrara occupy a couple of day.

Bloodhound, Prince Philip's old yacht, now owned by the Britannia Trust, is in Oban touting for charters during July and August
The marina on Kerrara with Oban in the background

David Storer left on Sunday Morning and Richard Wall arrived in the evening. The afternoon weather on Sunday turned very wet and windy.The first time I have experience the two together! The weather continued into Monday and gave us the excuse to visit the Oban whisky distillery. After visiting the Highland Park distillery in Kirkwall I had not expected there to be any difference in the method of producing the final product but I was interested to hear that Oban as subtle differences in whisky stills and method that distinguish it. It will be equally interesting to see if Lagavulin on Isaly have also their own differentiating methods.

Friday 20 July 2012

Day 40 - A brief trip to Oban.

The Firth of Lorn
A Razor Bill


Another sunny day, we leave Port Appin with a following tide and no wind. As we venture south we get a brief, but enormous surge in the tide, so much so the size of the tidal arrow on the chart plotter completely obscures our position. It occurs as we pass an artificial reef created for a marine project.  We also get a glimpse of Razor Bills close to the boat. Previously these have only been visible at distance.

Oban Marina on arrival.


We arrive in Oban Marina on the Island of Kerrara in beautiful sunshine and I look forward to a cycle tour of the island. We hear later that this is the start of Highland Week, which explains why, shortly after our arrival, the marina is full and turning away hopeful clients. We were fortunate in getting one of the two or three berths available. i had though about going for a sail later when the wind increased but within the prospect of loosing our berth we will stay put until Richard Wall arrives on Sunday evening and davis leaves on Sunday morning.

Photos below are all Kerrara.
It seems the cows like seaweed.
The very welcome tea rooms at the southern most tip of the island
A herd of local goats are a change from the normal sheep.
Mull in the background.


Day 39 - Goodbye to the canal and hallo Loch Linnie.

No its not Scotland, but it does look nice! Andrew and Philip will remember it - jelly fish!
The pontoons at the top of the lock as we wait for it to open.
Entering the lock.
Ben Nevis clear of cloud.


The day starts well. Glorious unexpected sunshine and we enter "Neptune's Staircase" two locks behind the Lord of the Glens and follow her in "double lock" mode, for the next 2 hours until we exit the sea loch at Corpach and enter Loch Linnie. Our destination is Port Appin some 20 miles away on the east coast of the loch opposite the island of Lismore. It turns out to be a delightful spot, especially so in the warm sunshine. The mooring is free provided we eat at the restaurant in the Pier House. No real contest really as we both have excellent meals. The evening light is very special and let's me take some interesting photos.

Just to prove we do use the sails occasionally, even if there is little wind.
Approaching Port Appin
Just a dinghy ride away from our restaurant.
Soleis in her natural surroundings
A glorious sunset.
Later