Day 53 - Final leg to Plymouth.

Plymouth, here we come!

Two anchored vessels glint in the morning sun outside Falmouth

Parents eagerly seeking food for the kids!

A bright sunny morning sees us leaving Falmouth on a glassy sea. The sun stays with us all the way enabling me to air some of the bedding that has become slightly damp during the last few days. We all enjoy the sun as we relax as we motor towards Plymouth with more sailing boats visible than I have seen for a long time.

A pretty old gaffer, searches for wind as we enter the Sound.

We arrive in Plymouth Sound just as the free flow into Sutton Harbour comes to and end and we prepare to lock in.

Soleis is refuelled and returned to her berth after having completed 2230 nautical miles largely done with the motor rather than under sail. However the weather has been generally extremely kind to us and I have enjoyed Scotland very much.

It would not have been possible without all my helpful crew members and I thank them all most sincerely. They have been excellent company and invaluable in crewing the boat.

Day 52 - Newlyn to Falmouth.

Goodbye Newlyn

We leave in a flat calm and cross Mounts Bay threading our way through several extremely large tankers. Just as we approach one of the tankers to pass in front it takes in its anchor and starts to steam away so a hasty left turn ensures we pass behind.

A hazy St Michaels Mount as we depart

A brief sighting of a fin suggests a basking shark of an otherwise uneventful motor to arrive in Falmouth around lunchtime in warm cloudy sunshine.

Day 51 - Padstow to Newlyn

After a quick break at home, John Summers and Michael Maddox joined me to take the boat back to Plymouth. We left Padstow under an overcast sky which remained with us all the way to Newlyn. The wind remained southerly and unhelpful so once again it was a day of motoring.

Newlyn was full and we ended up rafted against an older lugger on the central pier. Facilities are not brilliant for leisure craft so we were quite happy to leave early on Wednesday for Falmouth.

Day 50 - Back to Padstow

Another weather forecast far off the mark. We enjoy a sunny cruise motor sailing to Padstow to await the opening of the gate into the marina. A very high tide is anticipated so the gate will only be open for an hour. We arrive in plenty of time and sail around in the bay waiting for a couple of squalls to pass.

The harbour is packed and we wait while several boats, wanting to leave the following day, were shuffled into position. On the quay we have our very own protectionn in the form of a restored motor torpedo boat called Gay Archer!

Richard Wall says goodbye and Soleis will stay to await a new crew for a departure on Tuesday morning while I take the opportunity of returning home for a couple of days.

Day 49 Milford Haven to Lundy Island

Gypsy Moth IV joins us in the lock.

Locking out in the morning we were joined by Gipsy Moth IV taking some marina staff for a morning sail. The lock is enormous and takes almost 30 minutes to empty so we had plenty of time to chat to the occupants and look inside this iconic craft. All I can say is I now understand why Francis Chichester did not want to continue with the yacht on his completion of his round the world voyage. He had her built to accommodate 6, albeit in a rather spartan manner, with a view to cruising with his family, but she proved be a rather unkindly craft at sea. Her current skipper said she is a real handful in a marina with her leisurely turning circle and offset propeller.

Overtaking traffic as we leave Milford

In contrast to the previous day the forecast proved only too correct and we enjoyed a bumpy ride to Lundy. The wind remains from the south so we were able to anchor in calm conditions in the south east corner of Lundy with sufficient time to take a brief trip ashore and sample the delights of this island. A taster for a future visit.

Soleis anchored in sheltered waters at Lundy

A rare glimpse of the author!

The church of St Helena and the village in the background.

Early morning Lundy

Day 48 - Arklow to Milford Haven

Bishop's Rock Lighthouse and we are back in the UK.

Both the Irish and UK met offices threatened F5 to F7 winds with rough seas but the synoptic charts I had suggested much lighter winds so despite the forecasts I decided we would leave at 5am.

We left as the sun rose at low tide with virtually nothing beneath the keel. We needed to leave at this time to meet the lock times at Milford. As we exited the river the wind was light from the south and very little swell or waves. This situation changed very little during the day. The wind freshened to about a F4 but remained southerly and not very helpful. This proved to one of several days when the weather forecasts were remarkably adrift.

After several hours fighting the tide it turned in our favour and we shot past the Bishops Rock lighthouse at 10 knots only to be briefly stopped in our tracks as we were swept in the opposite direction south of Skomer. It was only a brief setback until we had entered Milford estuary, when a following tide took us up to the Marina entrance while lock free flow was still in progress. We had arrived almost two hours earlier that we had planned.

Day 47 - Dun Laoghaire to Arklow

The river and pontoons at Arklow

I asked in the marina in Dun Laoghaire for a plan of the marina in Arklow was told that it no bigger than their office followed a list of derogatory comments. I left with sone trepidation wondering what we would find. To our great surprise we found a pleasant river pontoon adjacent to some new attractive housing and a large modern shopping percent. To top it all we had the best meal in a local pub we have had in Ireland. Arklow in my opinion is a far better place to stopover than Dun Laoghaire.

Arklow looking towards the town

Another glorious sunset

It was a very choppy trip with F6 to & winds and a very disturbed sea until we were about an hour away from Arklow and everything calmed down and we had a very pleasant sunny end to the day.

Day 46 - Peel to Dun Laoghaire

One of the many fishing boats around us

Soleis surrounded by fishing boats

I have an interesting conundrum I have not yet found an answer for: For each leg of my journey I have planned a route on the chart plotter and in most cases we stick very closely to the planned route. Despite this the final logged distance is invariably 10-15% more than the planned distance; e.g Peel to Dun Laoghaire planned = 76nm,  Logged = 93nm. In this case we strayed a little north of track to make use of the wind, but not to the extent to account for the disparity. Any answers are very welcome!

Blustery from the start, the day remained dry but with a strong wind only 15 to 25º either side of our track. Therefore we were able to motor sail with the wind reducing the power needed to maintain a ground speed of 6 knots. It was a long day and the last few hours were done at speeds closer to 4kts due to a very strong adverse tide. In consequence we arrived in Dun Laoghaire in the dark. Not my preferred option for a port I have not visited before.

There was obviously a lot of fish to caught as at one stage we were surrounded by about 8 large trawlers. The fish seemed to be congregating along the course of an under water gas pipeline.

A day out in the IOM.

One horse power!

We profit from the excellent public transport and buy a day explorer pass that gives us access to all transport, horse included, and set of to travel to the top of Snaefell. The weather is very kind to us, and we later learn that views we experience are only available a few times a year. Our journey takes us by bus to Douglas, then along the promenade by horse drawn tram to the station for the Electric Railway. This railway stitches from Douglas to Ramsey, connecting with the Snaefell Railway at Laxey. This combination of horsepower and electric motor proves to be a memorable experience, enhanced by the excellent weather. The coaches on the railway date from the 1890s and display the exquisite patina created by over a 100 years of use  and maintenance.

The Electric Railway

Inside of Electric Railway car

This railway, like is steam counterpart between Port Erin and Douglas, is not just a tourist attraction but a working part of the island transport infrastructure.

A vie from the top of Snaefell

Snaefell station

The Laxey wheel that provided pumping power to drain water from the mine

Day 45 Glen Arm to Peel in the Isle of Man.

Peel Castle by the entry to the marina

We leave at 8am to ensure arriving in Peel for the 1800 gate opening. A fairly long trip of 75nm, the weather is fairly benign to start with. A westerly wind of  F4 bowls us along nicely. Gradually the wind picks up and becomes very gustily in increasingly frequent squalls as we approach the IOM. Other than the odd fishing boat we see very little all day.The Irish Sea seems devoid of wildlife.

The harbour office at Peel closes at 1630 so we had to rely on the Douglas radio to get an update on the bridge and gate opening times, despite the fact someone needs to man the bridge and gate in Peel.

Peel, in contrast to the rest of the IOM, is a disappointment. It lacks the vitality of Douglas with very little to support the marina visitor. It also prove impossible to get  fuel over a weekend. We have to wait until Monday morning to get a pre-paid card from the local fisherman's cooperative and pay cash. This means a late departure for the long run to Dun Laoghaire.

The famous IOM kipper smokers

Peel Marina

Day 44 Port Ellen to Glen Arm Northern Ireland

We say goodbye to Scotland on our way back to Plymouth. Our route looks like it will be Glen Arm - Peel IOM - Dun Laoghaire Ireland - Arklow Ireland - Milford Haven - Lundy - Padstow and then around the Cornwall to Plymouth.

We leave Port Ellen at 6am to try and benefit from favourable tides east of Rathlin Island. The wind takes us a long at a far faster speed than planned and we run in the remaining part of the north going tide east of Rathlin and battle against the wind that has backed and a strong tide. Nevertheless despite a choppy ride, we arrive in Glen Arm in good time. Not a day for photographs.

Day 43 Gigha to Port Ellen Islay

Gigha is delightful. Beautiful sandy beaches, low lying and with a garden taken over by the National Trust and being gradually restored. Our one disappointment was that the cafe has closed at 1530 when we returned hoping for tea and cakes.

Lagavulin

Islay has a very different coast from Gigha

Ardbeg

Another sunny morning and a short trip to Islay. Islay is renowned for its distilleries and we hope to visit at least one of them. My choice is Lagavulin.

Rocky entrance to Lagavulin bay

The small marina is fairly full on our arrival and we moor on one of the outer pontoons, have lunch and get the bikes to cycle up the coast to Lagavulin. Along the way we pass Laphroaig, pass Lagavulin and take a quick look at Ardbeg before returning. Lagavulin no longer malts its own barley but bays it in. This doesn't seem to detract from the final producet which is rated at 38 ppm ( peat per millilitre) not the peatiest but a lovely whisky especially when you add 2 tear drops of water. Out tasting takes place in a panelled drawing room with leather settees and whisky ad lib. We both agree that the 12 year old cask strength (57% proof) is the best.

Islay Marina

Islay port next to marina

Day 42 Tayvallich to the Island of Gigha and a new fishing method

Tayvallich last evening (idem photos below)

A bright sunny morning augurs well and we prepare to release ourselves from the buoy and as Richard raised the chain we see that a mackerel has swum into one of the links and got itself stuck. I have finally caught fish, by I think a new method, not line caught but chain caught! We later enjoy the profits of this exercise in the frying pan. Our only regret was that we did not have the presence of mind to take a photo as we hauled the chain in.

Lesaving Tayvallich. The entrance is hidden to the left

Richard enjoying then early morning sun

Seals basking in the sun

Approach the entrance to Loch Sweeney

One of the several Gannets we saw on the way.

Time to leave

Lift-off at last

Fishing against the backdrop of Jura

Approaching Gigha